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PHYLLIS LAMHUT (former Alwin Nikolais and Murray Louis dancer, artistic director of the Phyllis Lamhut Dance Company): Hearts of Palm. The Phyllis Lamhut Dance Company. Choreography: Phyllis Lamhut. Costumes: antique store and Ted UlmerNikolais mostly used appliqued tights or painted tights--we used to stand there while [artist] George Constant painted them. When artists make the sexy costumes, they look great on paper, but they don''t always translate to the body. When I started my own company, I swore I would never wear tights. I spent a lot of money on costumes, although a lot of modern dancers don''t.For Hearts of Palm (1976), I found a Ginger Rogers type of dress in an antique shop. It was silk chiffon and had a skirt with 360-degree pleats. There were sequins and rhinestones on the bodice, and it had a V-neck and a very low back. I designed the piece around the dress--it was a spoof of elegant hotel lobby life--then had Ted Ulmer make ten more gowns. The femme in me was saying "Oh, finally--a big kitty skirt with pleats"--maybe I had reverted back to childhood. It made me feel wonderful, sort of nude, and I had big silver dancing shoes.
FREDERIC FRANKLIN (former principal dancer, the Ballet Russe de Monte Carlo): The Baron, Gaite Parisienne. The Ballet Russe de Monte Carlo. Choreography: Leonide Massine. Costumes: Comte Etienne de BeaumontWhen I joined the Ballet Russe in 1938, the first thing Massine did was Gaite Parisienne. I went to rehearsal and learned all the parts ... because he was testing me. We had what was called a show rehearsal, where people came to watch, and afterward, Massine asked me what part I wanted to do. I told him "Whatever you think I should do," and he said, "All right: The Baron." Massine explained that I was to be a young Austrian officer entering a nightclub for the first time, with dancing ladies and can-can girls.The costume was a very nice military top, green material with a frog or braid across the front, black wool tights with a red decoration on the side, and nice character shoes. It was a lovely, easy costume. It was not quite the same in the film--it wasn''t elaborate enough for Warner Brothers. [Warner Brothers filmed the ballet in 1941, as The Gay Parisian.] I wore it countless times--practically every night between 1938 and 1958. It had to be replaced several times, because it became so worn out with perspiration. It was my first performance with the Ballet Russe--other people did the role, but I became associated with it, and when Danilova started dancing it [the role of the Glove-Seller], it was the beginning of a long partnership.
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